Friday, July 26, 2013
The Lucky Safari
On day one, we saw a scarlet blossom scattered on an otherwise leafless tree.
Turns out, it is a lucky bean tree, and very rare in South Africa.
It seemed a good omen and we all took photos of the rare lucky bean and of our fledgling group.
The cynic might remark on how we proceeded to see the "rare" tree several times every day until we hit altitude at Drakensberg. But we prefer to see it as an icon or a lucky group.
Because after a few days of shared smirks (oh look, there's a rare lucky bean tree! oh look there's another), we suddenly noticed something. We had sunshine by day and starshine by night. Every day! The odd cloud, but mostly at night and no rain.
Previous safaris had not been able to climb at Drakensberg as it's too dangerous if wet or misty. Everyone remarked on how remarkable the weather was for us. This happened again at the Karoo lodge. Cold of course, but sunshine all day.
By this time of course we were referring to ourselves as the "lucky group".
The coast? Well, the Garden Route does not get its name from drought conditions. And the Storm River trail is pretty dangerous if wet. But the one day we were there - lovely.
The one thing we did know was that Cape Town has its own ecosystem. When it's dry and generally favourable in the rest of the country, i.e., winter, it's wet, grey, windy and stormy in Cape Town. I brought a good jacket for wind and warmth pretty much for our week in Cape Town only. We live in Vancouver - we know what wet wintery weather is.
And so? Sunshine - blazing sunshine. Table Mountain usually puts its cable car away for servicing this time every year because it's such terrible weather no one can use it. And the one day we are here? Gorgeous. Look at us - look at what we are wearing! Austrian mother even went down to her bottom layer!
And our last day, when Griffths faithfully drove us to a fabulous beach with a classic view of Table Mountain. Poor us..More hot sunshine.
Here's to a very lucky group! We feel lucky just to have travelled together. The fine weather was a bonus.
Turns out, it is a lucky bean tree, and very rare in South Africa.
It seemed a good omen and we all took photos of the rare lucky bean and of our fledgling group.
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| Add caption |
The cynic might remark on how we proceeded to see the "rare" tree several times every day until we hit altitude at Drakensberg. But we prefer to see it as an icon or a lucky group.
Because after a few days of shared smirks (oh look, there's a rare lucky bean tree! oh look there's another), we suddenly noticed something. We had sunshine by day and starshine by night. Every day! The odd cloud, but mostly at night and no rain.
Previous safaris had not been able to climb at Drakensberg as it's too dangerous if wet or misty. Everyone remarked on how remarkable the weather was for us. This happened again at the Karoo lodge. Cold of course, but sunshine all day.
By this time of course we were referring to ourselves as the "lucky group".
The coast? Well, the Garden Route does not get its name from drought conditions. And the Storm River trail is pretty dangerous if wet. But the one day we were there - lovely.
The one thing we did know was that Cape Town has its own ecosystem. When it's dry and generally favourable in the rest of the country, i.e., winter, it's wet, grey, windy and stormy in Cape Town. I brought a good jacket for wind and warmth pretty much for our week in Cape Town only. We live in Vancouver - we know what wet wintery weather is.
And so? Sunshine - blazing sunshine. Table Mountain usually puts its cable car away for servicing this time every year because it's such terrible weather no one can use it. And the one day we are here? Gorgeous. Look at us - look at what we are wearing! Austrian mother even went down to her bottom layer!
And our last day, when Griffths faithfully drove us to a fabulous beach with a classic view of Table Mountain. Poor us..More hot sunshine.
All in a day's work
Animal count: elands, seals, camels, penguins (not an animal I know - see previous inclusion justificatioon re:ostrichs), ostrichs (ibid.), flamingos (ibid. ibid), horses
Well, let's see what's on our list for today. Breakfast at 8am - wonderful, no problem there. Glad to oblige.
Next, oh a little ride to Capte Town's famed Table Mountain. It's a lovely Sunday, and you say the cable car will go down for its annual servicing? for 6 weeks? Now, how busy can it really be? Yikes, very busy! It will take at least an hour to wait in line for the car going up so I guess that's it then. Oh, you mean there's a trail up? Howlong does that take. About an hour and a half going pretty fast? Gulp. And we'd better hurry because that mist that's settling in might grow and the siren will sound for everyone to get down? Oh well then, ok.
A wee bit strenuous. That's an understatement my dear.
But one and half hours later as promised we were all at the top together, the mist dissapated and incredible views.
Going down took only about 5 mintues, which is a little insulting. Then back on the bus sweaty and sore but happy. Lunch? Well it feels like we'd only just had breakfast but ok. This mountains behind Table Mountain are called the twelve apostles? Why is - 9 - 10 -11-12 - oh never mind.- I get it.
Here comes the boat into Hout Bay, full of fresh fish, a local variety called Snoek, which turns out to be Barracuda in English.
We're not the only ones keen for a bite.
From boat to dock,
From dock to table,
From table to grill and then into my tummy!
What a lovely day. Well, blow me, but here we are at the Cape of Good Hope, at the bottom of the world, where two of the mightiest oceans meet - the Atlantic and the Indian. Expecting drama we got none, just a nice photo op. Not even a breeze.
The sun is starting its descent so yes, let's return to the city, perhaps by the other side as you suggest. Maybe I can settle in for a - oh - we're stopping again? Well ok.
This is a nice little town- Simon's town it's called. and why exactly are we - penguins!!!!
Oh, so many Cape Penguins, sometimes called donkey penguins because of their call. Does that gutteral hee-haw voice really come out of that little throat? No wonder they are all coming back from the sea to their little holes in the ground for the night.
And what a night. Isn't that a full moon? You can see its reflection in the water.
The city does look lovely in the night, all lit up.
It's dusk and we are heading backto our little rooms.
How long? A half hour? Then what? Oh, we walk and bus it to the Waterfront for a seafood dinner and one of Griffiths' favourite Cape Town restaurants, Quay Four?
Oh my, Griffiths are you really disappointed we never made it to the winery today? when would we have fitted it in? Oh good, we'll do that tomorrow first thing. Nothing like a little wine tasting just after breakfast.
Well, let's see what's on our list for today. Breakfast at 8am - wonderful, no problem there. Glad to oblige.
Next, oh a little ride to Capte Town's famed Table Mountain. It's a lovely Sunday, and you say the cable car will go down for its annual servicing? for 6 weeks? Now, how busy can it really be? Yikes, very busy! It will take at least an hour to wait in line for the car going up so I guess that's it then. Oh, you mean there's a trail up? Howlong does that take. About an hour and a half going pretty fast? Gulp. And we'd better hurry because that mist that's settling in might grow and the siren will sound for everyone to get down? Oh well then, ok.
A wee bit strenuous. That's an understatement my dear.
But one and half hours later as promised we were all at the top together, the mist dissapated and incredible views.
Going down took only about 5 mintues, which is a little insulting. Then back on the bus sweaty and sore but happy. Lunch? Well it feels like we'd only just had breakfast but ok. This mountains behind Table Mountain are called the twelve apostles? Why is - 9 - 10 -11-12 - oh never mind.- I get it.
Here comes the boat into Hout Bay, full of fresh fish, a local variety called Snoek, which turns out to be Barracuda in English.
We're not the only ones keen for a bite.
From boat to dock,
From dock to table,
From table to grill and then into my tummy!
What a lovely day. Well, blow me, but here we are at the Cape of Good Hope, at the bottom of the world, where two of the mightiest oceans meet - the Atlantic and the Indian. Expecting drama we got none, just a nice photo op. Not even a breeze.
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| funicular up |
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| walk down |
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| hey Martin smile! |
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| Cheese! |
The sun is starting its descent so yes, let's return to the city, perhaps by the other side as you suggest. Maybe I can settle in for a - oh - we're stopping again? Well ok.
This is a nice little town- Simon's town it's called. and why exactly are we - penguins!!!! 
Oh, so many Cape Penguins, sometimes called donkey penguins because of their call. Does that gutteral hee-haw voice really come out of that little throat? No wonder they are all coming back from the sea to their little holes in the ground for the night.
And what a night. Isn't that a full moon? You can see its reflection in the water.
The city does look lovely in the night, all lit up.
It's dusk and we are heading backto our little rooms.
How long? A half hour? Then what? Oh, we walk and bus it to the Waterfront for a seafood dinner and one of Griffiths' favourite Cape Town restaurants, Quay Four?
Oh my, Griffiths are you really disappointed we never made it to the winery today? when would we have fitted it in? Oh good, we'll do that tomorrow first thing. Nothing like a little wine tasting just after breakfast.
our man Griffiths
I want to tell you about our guide, Griffiths.
He was the only driver of an incredible 4,795 kilometres in less than 3 weeks.
He drove a large truck using mirrors only to guide him along sometimes narrow and sometimes harrowing places.
He stopped the truck every time we shouted that there was a zebra or a giraffe, or even if we thought we saw one.
He was the cook and cleaner for every meal we had out of the truck and a few other ones as well.
He answered almost every question put to him that started "Do you know what....? And what he didn't know he looked up with his collection of books but more often by way of his cell phone. Wherever we were. Literally.
He was unflappable whenever we said yes to a particularly long hike, or a particular viewpoint.
He was calm but in charge, and every night after dinner, he would clasp his hands together, lean forward and say "all right guys, about tomorrow..." and we would stop our chatter and listen to find out what ungodly hour we had to be up and dressed. Anytime breakfast was after 7am, Martin and Austrian father (who shared the same birthday!) would high-five each other. And anytime he said there would be wifi (which was once) Martin and Austrian daughter would high-five each other.
Like any guide, he had pet expressions. The most commonn one was "the toilet is over there" which is not really a pet expression per se, but it's the one he said more than any other. Everytime he stopped the truck we waited for him to come round and let us out, and he'd always say "the toilet is over there" before anything else.
Originally from Zimbabwe, his English was perfect, but we smiled a bit when he said 'the sheepses' or 'the cattles' because it was cute.
When warning us of dangers he would get animated about some hideous adeventure and finish with "Then trust me guys (finger snaps), it's game over!"
But what made Griffiths an excellent guide was the simple fact that really cared about our comfort, our happiness, and our satisfaction with the trip.
Thank you, Griffiths, it couldn't have happened without you. Primarily becauae none of us would be able to work the truck. I will never hear a grinding shift as I go up hill on a potholed gravel road without thinking of you.
He was the only driver of an incredible 4,795 kilometres in less than 3 weeks.
He drove a large truck using mirrors only to guide him along sometimes narrow and sometimes harrowing places.
He stopped the truck every time we shouted that there was a zebra or a giraffe, or even if we thought we saw one.
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| Griffiths making breakfast in daylight for once |
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| cooking in the dark,, Griffiths style |
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| a rare moment when he accepted help |
He answered almost every question put to him that started "Do you know what....? And what he didn't know he looked up with his collection of books but more often by way of his cell phone. Wherever we were. Literally.
He was unflappable whenever we said yes to a particularly long hike, or a particular viewpoint.
He was calm but in charge, and every night after dinner, he would clasp his hands together, lean forward and say "all right guys, about tomorrow..." and we would stop our chatter and listen to find out what ungodly hour we had to be up and dressed. Anytime breakfast was after 7am, Martin and Austrian father (who shared the same birthday!) would high-five each other. And anytime he said there would be wifi (which was once) Martin and Austrian daughter would high-five each other.
Like any guide, he had pet expressions. The most commonn one was "the toilet is over there" which is not really a pet expression per se, but it's the one he said more than any other. Everytime he stopped the truck we waited for him to come round and let us out, and he'd always say "the toilet is over there" before anything else.
 |
| waiting to be let out of the truck |
When warning us of dangers he would get animated about some hideous adeventure and finish with "Then trust me guys (finger snaps), it's game over!"
But what made Griffiths an excellent guide was the simple fact that really cared about our comfort, our happiness, and our satisfaction with the trip.
Thank you, Griffiths, it couldn't have happened without you. Primarily becauae none of us would be able to work the truck. I will never hear a grinding shift as I go up hill on a potholed gravel road without thinking of you.
the Garden Route
Animal count: bushbucks, dolphins, rock dassies, whales, frogs, cattle, cape mountain zebra, monkeys, horses, sheep, seals
The so called Garden Route is a section of South Africa's southern coast that runs east to west, with mountains along the north and the Indian Ocean along the south. Knysna, where we stayed for a few nights, is near the top end.
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| our home in Knysa - nice |
Actually Storms River, in Tsitsikamma Park is the top end. We spend a great day hiking along the coast to the storms river end, where it meets the sea by way of a dramatic waterfall.
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| coastline walk |
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| are you sure this is part of a trail???? |
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| rest stop and a well placed seagull |
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| river's edge waterfall |
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| a whale! |
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| bushbucks |
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| dassies |
The Ocean was magnificent, and the landscape dramatic, especially as the sun was setting behind a cloud. The cloud's gold-rimmed edge provided even my wee camera a decent shot. I imagine that a professional would take this landscape and make an entire series of travel brochures and calender photos that might set him or her up for a nice little retirement somewhere maybe, well here for example.
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